Wally Skater Results

[Dorian]

Hello all

I recently acquired a Wally Skater (WS) and I have been using it over the past few days. I wanted to share the results with the forum.

Firstly, I had some problems with the fit of the three main components. These three pieces need to connect together snugly, and unfortunately the tolerances on the cuts were not done tightly enough so the pieces were quite loose. I contacted JR at WAM engineering and he immediately sent me replacement pieces that fit much better.

Moving on to the actual results, they were quite eye-(ear?)-opening. I had previously set AS using the SoundSmith method, as I have a SoundSmith cartridge. Using that method I had ended up with two rubber washers on the lower post and two on the upper post of the anti-skating device.

When I measured AS using the WS with those settings applied, it told me I had way too much AS applied. In the end in order to achieve the desired result per the WS instructions, I had to completely disengage the anti-skate device and just have one twist of the lemo wire. Ironically, this is Harry’s recommended setting I believe!

What was also interesting was that adding or removing just one twist of the lemo wire makes a big difference in the WS results.

I haven’t actually done any listening yet, but wanted to report these results here and see what people think.

Has anyone else used the WS yet?

[Dorian]

Ignore this I was measuring incorrectly. Stand by for further updates....!

[theeng]

@Dorian,

The image attached to this post shows results measured with the the Wally Skater - viewtopic.php?f=12&t=13391&hilit=skate+votan&start=50#p57790. And the spreadsheet in this post viewtopic.php?f=12&t=15125&hilit=skate+theeng#p62785 shows a way to calculate the amount of anti-skate from the mechanical device - and you will see where the spreadsheet rolls in the Wally Skater reading for the wire twist.

[Dorian]

Thank you Neil, that's very helpful. And yes my goal was to get to a reading of 10, which I see matches what Votan reported as his best-sounding reading too. After learning how to read the measurements properly I actually ended up with AS pretty similar to what I had from using the SoundSmith method: two rubber donuts on the top post and two on the bottom. They're not in the same spot though and I think (but not entirely sure) I might have one more twist in the lemo wire. I haven't had a chance to listen to any records yet, will do that tomorrow.

On a related but separate note, I had trouble with the set screw that secures the anti-skating device to the vertical post attached to the junction box. If I tighten the set screw too much it seems to pop back out and lose its grip on the post altogether. I was able to get it secure by tightening it just enough, but not too much, but I'm worried it may move over time. Does anyone else have that problem?

[theeng]

Dorian,

WRT to the set-screws. The barrel is only aluminum while the set-screws are steel, and you are trying to secure to a chromed steel shaft. It is very easy to over-tighten and strip the threads in the aluminum barrel. So, when you over-tighten the set-screw and it suddenly loosens its stripping the threads. So, stop before you strip the threads completely. You can try some Loctite® Threadlocker Blue (non hardening thread locker) on the set screw to minimize any further damage if you find you need to keep adjusting. Otherwise, tighten with just a lite touch.

Neil

[Dorian]

Noted thanks Neil, I will pick up some of that Locktite product.

[bhjazz]

I myself am in the middle of tweaking with the newer version of the WS. Current problem is that when getting a good reading from the WS I am getting some tilt at the headshell (and some cantilever deflection) due to the wire twist. I may get the hair dryer out to soften the wire and form a better arc. It looks rather squared off even though it's not horrifically twisted (like me). I'm sure the colder weather has a part to play. I'll probably grab a second pivot kit so I can get this working as I expect it could.

[Dorian]

Current problem is that when getting a good reading from the WS I am getting some tilt at the headshell (and some cantilever deflection) due to the wire twist.

Yes I had the same thing. I actually had to unscrew one of the azimuth side weights to even it out during setup, which of course now means my azimuth is way off. I’ll be correcting that as a next step now that AS is dialed in.

[bhjazz]

Was thinking about your post, Dorian. Check the twist of your tonearm wire. Mine didn't have that nice arc it should probably have. I took a hair dryer and carefully heated the wire and now the arc is consistent. This always make me wonder how much seasonal temperature changes will ultimately affect azimuth, and how using the mechanical AS might be a more consistent option. ymmv, as always.

[Stringreen]

Why would you be concerned with a/s at all...its constantly changing....there is no right answer....can anyone hear a difference with/without a/s. ..just set up your cartridge correctly....overhang,VTA, Stylus Force, Azimuth,