Older motor pod vibration control

Re: Older motor pod vibration control

Postby Packgrog » Wed Nov 29, 2017 4:02 pm

OK, interesting points there, John. Definitely outside of my budget comfort zone for those Symphosium Point Pods, sadly. It'd be interesting to know under which applications that IsoDamp would be a better choice than grungebusters. I've found grungebusters to be excellent for isolation AND synergistic sound improvement compared to most other things, but that doesn't mean that other materials won't work better for certain problems. The rubber feet weren't good, though, and the sand baggie trick that I tried was horrible, so I'm cautious.
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Re: Older motor pod vibration control

Postby Brf » Thu Nov 30, 2017 10:17 am

For vibration suppression, mass is your friend. In the past, I have used lead tape (you can purchase lead tape from most Golf stores) and lined the inside of the motor pod to create more mass. That is why when you move up the VPI line, the motor pods get heavier. In addition, the original rubber feet dry out and no longer provide any usable shock absorption, therefore, you should periodically replace with feet with a softer compound with a 60-90 durometer rating.
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Re: Older motor pod vibration control

Postby Packgrog » Thu Nov 30, 2017 10:27 am

Intriguing... I'm a little wary of non-reversible mods, but that is interesting. Part of my question about brass weights on the top plate was about the prospect of higher mass helping matters, with thin grungebuster in between brass weight and top plate hopefully limiting bad synergy like what I'd had with the playground sand. What about steel and/or lead shot, like some people use in audio rack poles?
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Re: Older motor pod vibration control

Postby elader » Thu Nov 30, 2017 10:29 am

Brf wrote:For vibration suppression, mass is your friend. In the past, I have used lead tape (you can purchase lead tape from most Golf stores) and lined the inside of the motor pod to create more mass. That is why when you move up the VPI line, the motor pods get heavier. In addition, the original rubber feet dry out and no longer provide any usable shock absorption, therefore, you should periodically replace with feet with a softer compound with a 60-90 durometer rating.


how much weight do you think you manage to add with the lead tape? Great idea..

how many of these do you think you could fit in the motor housing? would a pound make a difference?

https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Weights ... ead+weight
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Re: Older motor pod vibration control

Postby Packgrog » Thu Nov 30, 2017 11:11 am

I'm still wary of using adhesive, as it would be non-reversible.

But what about something like this in a small baggie inside the motor pod? https://www.amazon.com/Lead-Shot-Balls- ... 01C51OZ2K/ Or would the diameter of that be too large? Would a mix of this and steel pellets be better or worse? I haven't seen much good information about the use of the stuff.

My original idea was a couple of these placed on the top outside corners of the motor pod. Still way less than one of those Walker Audio discs. Better/worse? https://www.amazon.com/100g-Balance-Wei ... 06ZYMT3YB/
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Re: Older motor pod vibration control

Postby Brf » Thu Nov 30, 2017 11:47 am

The motor housing is a simple black metal box. Stuff as much lead tape/weights as humanly possible. Heck, even wrap the lead tape around the actual motor. Don't worry about the adhesive tape or residue if you decide to remove it, it's inside the box or if you want, use goo-gone and remove the adhesive.
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