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Upgrading from standard JMW 10" arm...3D or Fatboy

PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2018 8:45 pm
by aztwang
So if you have the ability to upgrade from a standard steel 10' JMW arm, does upgrading to a JMW10" 3D arm make sense or does going with the NON-3D Fatboy arm make sense being there is no 3D Fatboy option available?

Cheers

Re: Upgrading from standard JMW 10" arm...3D or Fatboy

PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2018 10:18 pm
by Peer Gynt
I could have missed the memo, but since Fatboys are printed on the 3D printer, I think that all Fatboys are considered 3D, no?

Re: Upgrading from standard JMW 10" arm...3D or Fatboy

PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2018 6:21 am
by BillK
Peer Gynt wrote:I could have missed the memo, but since Fatboys are printed on the 3D printer, I think that all Fatboys are considered 3D, no?


Correct, but I believe the lineup goes JMW Classic, 3D, Fatboy.

Re: Upgrading from standard JMW 10" arm...3D or Fatboy

PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2018 7:45 am
by mreeter
BillK wrote:
Peer Gynt wrote:I could have missed the memo, but since Fatboys are printed on the 3D printer, I think that all Fatboys are considered 3D, no?


Correct, but I believe the lineup goes JMW Classic, 3D, Fatboy.


Don't forget the 3D-R...the 3D Reference Arm with Nordost Reference Wire :)

Re: Upgrading from standard JMW 10" arm...3D or Fatboy

PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2018 8:21 am
by Brf
All of VPI's current 10 series of tonearms are interchangeable with the exception of the original JMW 10 and 10.5. Some earlier 10.5i tonearm will have a VTA tower with a smaller dog leg mount that may interfere with the larger azimuth side weights of the current production 10 series arm.

The performance hierarchy (subjective) is as follows:

JMW 10 Classic - full metal tonearm
JMW 10-3D - full 3D printed tonearm
JMW 10-3DR - same as the 10-3D but with Valhalla wiring and improved cosmetics
JMW Fatboy - Re-designed hybrid 3D tonearm (3D printed one piece tonearm wand with integrated headshell. Full metal tonearm wand ferrule, bell housing, azimuth ring and counter weight)

The above hierarchy is designed to match the desired level of performance with the system and budget.

Re: Upgrading from standard JMW 10" arm...3D or Fatboy

PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2018 1:35 pm
by aztwang
Wow do I feel like an ass ! I guess I missed the memo, could’ve sworn they were metal arms .
Thank you for setting me and the record straight.

Cheers

Don

Re: Upgrading from standard JMW 10" arm...3D or Fatboy

PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2018 9:13 pm
by Golear
Brf wrote:All of VPI's current 10 series of tonearms are interchangeable with the exception of the original JMW 10 and 10.5. Some earlier 10.5i tonearm will have a VTA tower with a smaller dog leg mount that may interfere with the larger azimuth side weights of the current production 10 series arm.


I ran into this when I upgraded. The larger side weights did indeed hit the VTA tower. Fortunately, my dealer got a 3D arm with smaller side weights, and this arm will clear the VTA tower.

Re: Upgrading from standard JMW 10" arm...3D or Fatboy

PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2018 10:21 am
by suntea
Golear wrote:
Brf wrote:All of VPI's current 10 series of tonearms are interchangeable with the exception of the original JMW 10 and 10.5. Some earlier 10.5i tonearm will have a VTA tower with a smaller dog leg mount that may interfere with the larger azimuth side weights of the current production 10 series arm.


I ran into this when I upgraded. The larger side weights did indeed hit the VTA tower. Fortunately, my dealer got a 3D arm with smaller side weights, and this arm will clear the VTA tower.


Same for me - I have the smaller weights on the way.

New issue: while waiting for the smaller weights, I changed out the old Classic 3 pivot spike for the new one that will accept the 3D arm, and set the pivot spike at the same height level as the old spike. When I put my metal 10.5" JMW arm back on (to use while I wait for the smaller side weights for the 3D) I have the correct space of 1/8" to 1/4" between the azimuth ring and the dogleg platform.

However, now when I set the VTA, I have to turn it clockwise ALL the way until it stops to get the arm even close to parallel. I cannot lower it enough to get it parallel, which is always my starting point to set VTA by ear. The hex bolt in the bell housing has never been changed from the factory setting. I am at a loss, there must be something about the new 3D pivot spike that needs another adjustment. But it seems that changing it would compromise the distance between the azimuth ring and dogleg platform.

Re: Upgrading from standard JMW 10" arm...3D or Fatboy

PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2018 10:51 am
by Brf
suntea wrote:
Golear wrote:
Brf wrote:All of VPI's current 10 series of tonearms are interchangeable with the exception of the original JMW 10 and 10.5. Some earlier 10.5i tonearm will have a VTA tower with a smaller dog leg mount that may interfere with the larger azimuth side weights of the current production 10 series arm.


I ran into this when I upgraded. The larger side weights did indeed hit the VTA tower. Fortunately, my dealer got a 3D arm with smaller side weights, and this arm will clear the VTA tower.


Same for me - I have the smaller weights on the way.

New issue: while waiting for the smaller weights, I changed out the old Classic 3 pivot spike for the new one that will accept the 3D arm, and set the pivot spike at the same height level as the old spike. When I put my metal 10.5" JMW arm back on (to use while I wait for the smaller side weights for the 3D) I have the correct space of 1/8" to 1/4" between the azimuth ring and the dogleg platform.

However, now when I set the VTA, I have to turn it clockwise ALL the way until it stops to get the arm even close to parallel. I cannot lower it enough to get it parallel, which is always my starting point to set VTA by ear. The hex bolt in the bell housing has never been changed from the factory setting. I am at a loss, there must be something about the new 3D pivot spike that needs another adjustment. But it seems that changing it would compromise the distance between the azimuth ring and dogleg platform.


You can raise your platter by putting a large washer(s) between the inverted bearing flange and the plinth. Alternatively, remove the armboard and have a local machinist remove 1/8" height. If you only need a bit of height, it won't hurt if you move the bearing pivot spike interface up a touch.

Re: Upgrading from standard JMW 10" arm...3D or Fatboy

PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2018 11:21 am
by Golear
Re: New Issue

I ran into that, too! And I kept the original spike. You can see my post on this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=10726

I'd also see if there's any way to reduce the height of the spike assembly, by removing some metal, in a lathe.