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Glue for ball bearing replacement
#1
Hello All,
I had previously tried to register for the forum under the old interface numerous times, but never got an activation e-mail.
Finally!

Anyway I just developed an issue with my Aries I. I purchased this about 2 years ago and rebuilt the main bearing with a ceramic ball. The platter started spinning erratically and the ball has a wear spot, so I need to change it again.

I forgot what kind of glue I used, and since the archives are gone, I figured I  would ask.
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#2
Certainly worth asking.

I imagine it might be some type of epoxy which would be sticky enough for two different materials.

The version of this work done by Steve Leung at VAS Audio usually leaves the ceramic bearing loose and packs the well with grease. (I had Steve rebuild mine for the ceramic bearing.)

Best of luck and welcome to the forum!
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#3
Jumping in here. I believe I asked this if you on the old forum but wanted to confirm I did the right thing. I have an inverted bearing in my classic. The ball was coming out easily and it was recommended to glue it in. It’s the original VPI ball. Ball doesn’t need to be free, correct? It can be glued in?
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#4
I think super glue was recommended previously on the old forum
VPI Classic 1 with VTA on-the fly & Fatboy Gimbal, PE Eagle/RR, Manley Chinook, Bob's Devices SUT, VAS Nova HW & Soundsmith Paua
Anthem AVM70, Rogue RP-5, Rogue ST-100, VTV 7 ch amp, Oppo 203/103D, Cambridge CXNv2
Ascend Acoustics Sierra Towers w/ RAAL, Horizon w/ RAAL, S2, and HTM200SE's, 2 x Rythmik E15s
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#5
Just use a drop of Super Glue which has a very high tensile strength but a very low shear strength which means it can be easily removed by either heat of rotating the ball with pressure. I've had conversations with Steve (Vas Audio) and he is of the opinion that the weight of the platter will keep the ball in place, whereas my opinion differs in that I want to ensure that the ball cannot freely resonate in the bearing cup.
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#6
You have to be careful when swapping out the thrust ball we use, it will void the platter bearing warrantee if you do it because we have no long term numbers on PTFE verses Ceramic or any other ball, only 60 Rockwell, chrome hardened polished steel.  
The issue of glued verses pressed in verses resting in the shaft is table dependent.  Lighter platters sound better with the ball glued in, heavy platters have no sonic difference that we can hear as long as the ball is stable and not moving laterally.
I like the Ceramic ball on the tungsten carbide thrust disc we used in the older tables (HW-19, early TNT, etc.) but have found no significant differeance when running on a PTFE thrust disc.

HW

To the original poster, you need to check the PTFE disc, the Ceramic ball may have worn it out or distorted it enough to make it run erratically.  I would recommend a new thrust disc when you change the ball and change the disc every year if you want the best using the Ceramic ball.

HW
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