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Forum: Record Chat
Last Post: madrac
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New forum same prime upgr...
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12" Fatboy unipivot , hor...
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Ongoing Expensive Cart Is...
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Cartridge Recommendation
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Platter thrust plate and ...
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7" Adapter for Prime?
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Why Do our Arms Work?
Forum: General Audio
Last Post: suntea
05-14-2022, 09:14 PM
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  12" Fatboy unipivot , horizontal torque forces
Posted by: an.vamv - 05-17-2022, 09:09 PM - Forum: VPI Support - Replies (2)

Hello,
After installing a rather light VDH Colibri on my 12" Fatboy unipivot with about 1.25gr VTF as per maker's recommendation , i noticed that when the stylus gets in the run out groove the tonearm automatically skids back  to a random position of the last track on the record. With cartridges which require higher VTF around 2.5gr this is not so evident.
It appears as if there is excessive antiskating caused by the  lemo wire . This happens even with the lemo wire disconnected fully from the junction box/disengaged and even when held straight upright. I experimented by twisting the wire 3 times fully counterclockwise and this stopped. However the twist of the cable is thus so pronounced that the whole balance of the tonearm is affected ...this is not normal. I also tested with Wally Skater and i got a huge reading (counted over 20 hashmarks) evidencing the existence of strong horizontal toque forces.
I read on this forum instructions by Harry to heat the wire with hair dryer to relax the internal forces. I tried that however with little effect. It is not very clear  how long i must heat and to what extent and at what distance from the cable though.
As i suspect the wire is twisted internally , would it be possible to remove cartridge , front grommet , disassemble the forward part of the tonearm from the rear part and turn the cable internally? Or would it be possible to turn the heatshrink tubing as it comes out from the top of the bearing housing??
Thank you  for any advice.

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  Cartridge Recommendation
Posted by: wachuko - 05-17-2022, 06:50 PM - Forum: General Audio - Replies (11)

I have two turntables... 

1. Pro-Ject RPM 1.3 with a Ortofon 2M Red MM
2. VPI Scoutmaster Refurbish, Prime Signature Motor (300 rpm), Prime Aluminum (20 lbs) Platter and Bearing, Delrin Record Clamp, JMW 9 3D Arm with Sumiko Blue Point No.2

Initially I was thinking about upgrading the cartridge on the Pro-Ject because I really hate that Ortofon 2M Red MM... but this gives me a great opportunity.  I can move the Sumiko Blue Point No.2 to the Pro-Ject and buy a better suited cartridge for my VPI.

So here is the question... what would be a decent cartridge for my VPI??? I do not have a large budget for this... would be nice to get recommendations for something in the US$600.00 neighborhood...

EDIT: Forgot to include my setup. Here is what I have:

Turntable: VPI Scoutmaster Refurbish, Prime Signature Motor (300 rpm), Prime Aluminum (20 lbs) Platter and Bearing, Delrin Record Clamp, JMW 9 3D Arm, Upgraded Classic Feet, Periphery Ring Clamp
Pre Amp: Pro-Ject Phono Box DS
Cartridge: Sumiko Blue Point #2 High Output Moving Coil
Amp: McIntosh MHA-100

Thank you in advanced!

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  7" Adapter for Prime?
Posted by: Peter 99 - 05-13-2022, 01:32 AM - Forum: VPI Support - Replies (11)

I recently purchased a VPI Prime 21 and I absolutely love it. Easily the best sounding turntable I have ever owned.

I was playing some 7 inch records recently and have been having a tough time getting their large hole centered on the platter, and the clamp that works so great with 12 inch records is not effective for these smaller records. I searched for this online and was surprised a product like this has not yet come up. Is anything mass produced like this to screw into the spindle?

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  Ongoing Expensive Cart Issue (ideas welcome)
Posted by: Todd Fredericks - 05-12-2022, 06:53 PM - Forum: VPI Support - Replies (5)

This issue seems to be ongoing for over a decade. Actually about 12-13 years (sadly).
 
I own a VPI Aries 2 with the original arm plus junction box. The pivot spike has been upgraded.
 
What's the issue?
 
Every several years the right channel of my cart seems to get blown. This has happened with various Dynavactor MC carts and a Soundsmith MM cart. I've swapped the headshell clips and have sent them to the cart distributers to examine. Blown right channel or opened coil.
 
Based on some recommendations over the years I have changed phonostages (currently, I use an EAR 834P), various interconnects., etc. The thought was it was suspicious that it always seems to be the right channel getting damaged.
 
A few years ago, I thought the problem was solved (I think someone here had the idea). The cueing mechanism seem to be dropping too quickly and maybe that was damaging the cart.
 
I swapped the old curing mechanism for a new one and several years have gone by without an issue.
 
Sadly, until last week.
 
Right channel again.
 
The cueing mechanism seems to be a bit on the fast side and I swapped it out for a new one. I was going to add some silicone but remembered I had a spare new one.
 
I'm not too sad about the cart because it was getting on old side and was considering a retip.
 
However, it's the right channel again. That concerns me. What if this happens again (and again). It's getting pretty expensive over the years.
 
What else can possibly be causing this? My records are normally in clean, great shape. I always hit mute when I change sides. I'm not noticing any crazy static. I use an Audioquest brush.
 
Could it be the old JMW arm and the junction box? Could it be the wiring or something else.
 
It's most likely not the wiring in my home. I've lived in three different homes during this time span.
 
My McIntosh C46 preamp and MC202 amp are the only constants during this whole saga. However, I (hopefully) cannot imagine one of them to be the cause.
 
I'm just curious if anyone may have some troubleshooting thoughts.
 
Thanks for any ideas?
 
Todd

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  Why Do our Arms Work?
Posted by: Mat - 05-12-2022, 04:50 PM - Forum: General Audio - Replies (9)

This seems appropriate for "General Audio".  Recently a question came up on a Facebook post about "Why Does every cartridge seem to work on VPI tonearms".  There is an actual answer and it was too long for a quick facebook response so here is some more "behind the currant at VPI.   I know I did share this on the previous forum and elsewhere but always good to talk about it some more.

Back when my dad/Harry was designing his first arm he wanted to make a design that was top shelf but easily adjustable.  Also at the time I believe he preferred the sound of a Uni.  He focused on what would later be called the "JMW" (Jonathon Mathew Weisfeld) Memorial Tonearm.  A standard Unipivot type tonearm with the lowest about of contact/friction.  When he was designing it he had multiple cartridges to experiment with.  Every experiment was met with measurements and listening tests to confirm what he was trying to accomplish.   One of those cartridges was the Sumiko Black Bird.  He had three of them and had a hell of a time getting all three of them to sound good.   Angry

He made adjustments to the arm and eventually made it work.  It wasn't until he actually checked the stylus of the cartridges that he realized all three of those cartridges were drastically different!  Keep in mind this was MANY years ago and is no longer the case for Sumiko but at the time it was a nightmare and dad made the adjustability.  SO we can thank the (at the time) inconsistency of Sumiko for helping us design a better/cartridge universal tonearm.  Cool 

Harry feel free to chime in with any additional info on your tonearm design experience.  Smile

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  Scout Jr Cart Recommendations
Posted by: JohnFGramaglia - 05-12-2022, 02:55 PM - Forum: VPI Support - Replies (3)

I have a Scout Jr with the factory mounted Ortofon 2m Red cart on it and I am thinking of upgrading to the Bronze.  I want to stay in the moving magnet world for now and possibly upgrade to the moving coil world down the line.  Are there other recommendation for a cart in a similar price catagory?

Thanks in advance

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  LP rescue
Posted by: seamonster - 05-11-2022, 01:45 AM - Forum: General Audio - Replies (4)

So, I see over at the Facebook fan site a member posted about an upcoming DS Audio product that, after one reams the centerhole of an LP, allows eccentricity to be nullified.
I've got more than a handful of pricey records that suffer from that. But, I'm wondering if, after centering the record, a bead of material could be applied to the enlarged hole
while on the platter. If you first oiled the spindle, and protected the platter, you'd be able to remove the LP when the bead cures, and not have to use the device every time, due to a newly-sized hole. 
No idea of the cost -

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Bug Welcome Suggestions on REL T/9i Wiring
Posted by: Robes - 05-10-2022, 08:37 PM - Forum: General Audio - Replies (3)

Hello All-

 Wiring my system, a combination of well preserved vintage components and new alike. Working on adding two subs and plan to use supplied cable from REL and their recommendations to connect. The recommendation is wire bare cable terminals(of RELs) directly to Main speaker terminals at the amps output. But, considering I have 3 speaker outputs on my Amp I thought I would ask if anyone would connect to power amplifier differently; rather than both JBLs(Main) and both RELs to Speakers A connection of pwr amp.

REL Sub Base Series T/9i, amplifier type: classAB.  Connection at each REL with supplied unbalanced dual channel input via Neutrik Speakon connector- free wires connect to speaker Lt & Rt output terminals of the Yamaha M-65 Power Amplifier, Auto Class A. NOTE: Connections between Pwr Amp & RELs made using the supplied 32’, 3-wire (16 gauge or smaller stranded) cable. The bare leads connect to same speaker output terminals as the main JBL Model 4312A Control Monitors; this method recommended by REL.

Main Speakers JBL. Using: Anticables; Level 2.1, 17 feet, 12- gauge, solid wire, bare terminals both ends.

I have added all Yamaha Amplifier related attachments: rear panel pic, text, speaker switch circuit diagram, and speaker output connector diagram as aids. In addition this text didn't make the attachment max allotment cut-off:
AUTO CLASS A SWITCH
Press this switch to activate the Auto Class A circuitry. The AutoClass A indicator will light. This circuitry provides pure Class A power amplification for output with low power requirements. To provide high power for transient peaks, the circuit shifts to Class AB operation while the peak lasts. When the switch is off, this unit operates as CLASS AB.

Questions:
* Should the “Auto class A switch on Pwr Amp be turned On or Off ? (personally never noted any significance to it).

* The reason I posted this was due to type of speaker connectors on rear panel of Amp. As seen in the diagram, the vertical method uses a tight 11/64” dia. hole (>5/32”). The horizontal method requires stranded wire easily compared to solid. Wrapping stranded REL bare ends to the solid Anticables then soldering likely would be to big to fit into provided vertical hole. Thinking the need for good connections lead me to consider using multiple speaker outputs. Now, using multiple amp outputs could possibly disrupt the synchronicity of sound between Main and sub speakers?- this is the reason REL recommends running all to same circuit the Main speakers are using. Dilemma or not? or just jam it all into Speaker output A, best as possible, getting a snug connection(what I’d do to be safe) ? 

Thanks for any suggestions-  



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Question Platter thrust plate and bearing replacement - Sapphire and Si3N4
Posted by: wachuko - 05-10-2022, 05:51 PM - Forum: VPI Support - Replies (37)

Hello!

Sad  I had all this bookmarked and lost it when the site was changed: vpiforum.com • View topic - Magnetic Platter bearing replacement - Sapphire and Si3N4

  1. Anyone has information on the specifications for the sapphire thrust plate?  And where to source it from?
  2. Anyone has information on the specifications for the silicone nitrite (Si3N4) ceramic bearing ball? And where to source it from?

Some photos I had from a fellow that provides replacement services.  Photos are with a ceramic ball replacement.

Sapphire trust plate:

[Image: file.php?id=117281&t=1]

Ceramic ball replacement on the right and stock steel ball on the left

[Image: file.php?id=117280&t=1]


But I want to tackle this myself, and want to use the Si3N4 bearing ball as was recommended in that thread.   It was mentioned, if I remember correctly, that silicone nitrite (Si3N4) ceramic ball was better than going with some other kind of ceramic ball.  I just need a source for the parts or the specifications so I can search for suppliers of these items...  

This is for a VPI Scoutmaster Refurbish with Prime Signature Motor (300 rpm) and Prime Aluminum (20 lbs) Platter and Bearing

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  New forum same prime upgrade question
Posted by: Jprod - 05-10-2022, 01:08 AM - Forum: VPI Support - Replies (13)

Hello.  Good to see some of you back.  I have a vpi prime turntable with a 3d Uni pivot arm.  The remaining equipment is ps audio stellar phono pre, don sachs linestage , decware Tori jr tube amp , spatial audio x5 speakers and an ortofon 2m black that’s strarting to get long in the tooth
Not unhappy with my sound but I have been contemplating whether to just upgrade my cart  or 
Go the whole way and upgrade to a signature 21 with a new cart as well of course.  
Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated

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